There is a moment every summer when Paris changes.
The familiar rhythm of the city softens. The morning rush becomes gentler, the streets feel quieter, and a certain calm descends over the capital. As Parisians pack their bags and leave for their annual summer holidays, Paris takes on a different personality.
This is the magic — and the paradox — of Paris in August.
Millions of locals leave the city during Les Grandes Vacances, France’s great summer holiday tradition. Families head to the coast, the countryside, the mountains or their favourite holiday spots, often returning only at the end of the month. Yet at the same time, visitors from around the world arrive to experience the City of Light during one of its most popular months.
Paris is never truly empty in August. The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the most famous landmarks are still busy with tourists. But away from the major attractions, there is another side of Paris to discover: a slower, more relaxed version of the city.
After all, Paris in August is not really about ticking off a list of sights. It is about enjoying the simple pleasures of summer in the French capital.
For more about the French tradition of August holidays, read: The Art of the August Holiday: Why France Slows Down Every Summer.
Paris in August
The best thing about Paris in August is the fact that the city is deserted! So many people are on holiday and a strange calm descends over Paris.
What I love about Paris in August
i) I can walk around easily, without having to dodge hordes of people
ii) I can get on the metro without being crushed to death if I choose to travel this way (although I much prefer walking!)
iii) I can get a seat in my favorite bars and restaurants, without needing to book
iv) The views from the rooftop bars (such as ‘Le Perchoir‘, ‘Up on the Roof’, the Lounge Bar at the Novotel and the Champagne bar at the Montparnasse tower) are amazing
v) I can sit and read a book in one of the many parks in Paris (my favourite is the Jardin de Luxembourg).
vi) There are no (or minimal) queues for the museums and art galleries, so it’s a great time to visit the Louvre, Notre Dame or the Eiffel Tower! A few museums are also free in August
vii) I can go to the beach in Paris! Various riverbank spots along the Seine are transformed with sand and deckchairs for the month of August – ‘Paris Plages’ can be found at the voie Georges-Pompidou, at the Bassin de la Villette and at l’Hôtel de Ville (town hall) from July 20th to September 4th.
What I don’t like about Paris in August
i) Many of the bars and restaurants are closed for the entire month (or at least half of it!)
ii) Some of the small boutique shops and local bakers/butchers etc. will also be closed for August (although the big department stores, chain stores and supermarkets remain open)
iii) It’s almost impossible to find a news stand that’s actually open!
iv) The sales are finished, so no more bargains!
I hope you enjoyed this feature about What I love (and don’t like) about Paris in August. I will be back soon with more style, lifestyle and travel inspiration and don’t forget to subscribe to the blog below to make sure you never miss a post,
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